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How to Do a Retaining Wall Tear-Down

You have a retaining wall in your yard and it’s showing undeniable signs of deterioration or is beginning to seriously slant as tree roots upend it and you begin to think about demolishing it. Perhaps another solution is to fix it or have the tree removed to save the decorative structure. Then, you start thinking about the expense, time, and effort it will most definitely require.

It’s becoming more and more clear the only feasible solution is to take it down and save yourself the headache and wallet hit of repairing it or having it replaced. Now, the only problem is how you go about breaking it down without leaving a huge mess to clean-up. You want a realistic plan of action that will get rid of the retaining wall and not leave an eyesore after it’s gone.

Well, there is a way to take it down, but it will require more than a little bit of elbow grease to get it done right. Depending on what it is constructed of, and how it’s laid out, the project will be labor intensive, which is why you might consider hiring a landscape architect and having it done by a professional.

Assessing the Situation and Planning Ahead

The first thing you’ll have to do is identify the problem because that will dictate your course of action. In other words, if it’s crumbling because of age and the weather elements, that’s one thing. However, if it’s beginning to crumble because of tree roots, that’s an entirely different situation. In other words, age and weather are normal and only require you to demolish the wall and cart the pieces away; but, tree roots mean a problem with the tree, which will have to be dealt with.

A retaining wall is a wall that is constructed to contain soil to prevent it from eroding. Retaining walls are sometimes found in yards that are hilly, as the soil behind the wall creates a flat surface where flowers or a garden can be planted. Large, thin stones called capstones are often placed on top of the retaining wall to provide a decorative element. —San Francisco Gate.com

In any case, you’ll have to cover-up the area where it currently stands. Expect to find an unsightly trench devoid of green grass and perhaps a sizable amount of pests and/or critters nesting underneath. As you can see, there will be a lot more to deal with than just hammering down stones and carting them away in a wheelbarrow or hauled away in a rented dumpster.

The Right Way to Do a Retaining Wall Tear-Down

To get the best results and not put yourself into a bad situation, you’ll have to learn how to take down a retaining wall the right way. Just sledgehammering it or knocking it down with a rented tractor will do more damage to your lawn than necessary. Here’s how to tear down a retaining wall:

• Find out if you need a permit. Depending on the wall’s height and size, you might have to get a permit to demolish it and have it hauled away. Should this be the case, call a professional and let someone with experience do the job for you and save you time and money.
• Rent a dumpster. You’ll need to determine the size of the wall and how much cubic space you’ll need to hold all the debris. It’s better to rent a dumpster which is bigger than you need than rent one that’s too small and has to be emptied and refilled because that will take longer and cost more.
• Turn off the power. If there are any electric powered features on or near the base of the wall, such as lights, be sure to turn off the power at the breaker box. In addition, think about any buried irrigation lines which might be near the base of the retaining wall.
• Cover the immediate surrounding area. Cover any plants with a tarp or unearth them, place them in a temporary pot and move them out of the way.
• Pry off the top. Retaining walls have caps along the top to help them stay secure. You’ll have to use a crowbar or pry bar to get it off starting at one end where you are standing nearest the top.
• Hammer and chisel the bricks or stones. Next, you’ll have to chisel the individual layers, working your way laterally from one side to the other, and top to bottom.
• Dig up the foundation. Using a shovel, dig up the gravel foundation and save the material for future use.

Finally, replenish the soil to make it near even with the surrounding grass in the yard. Then, you can lay sod in the area and care for it to give your yard continuity. If there’s tree roots which are in the way, call a professional to have it removed and sod it thereafter.

How to Get Rid of Brazilian Pepper Trees Permanently

The Brazilian pepper tree, or Schinus terebinthifolius, as known by its scientific name, is a tree which is native not only to the country of Brazil, but also, to other parts of South America–such as Argentina and Paraguay. It’s common here in the Sarasota area, where landscape architects avoid it and most landscape designers forego it, although it is a beautiful variety of plant.

Some who call this area home wonder how a tree, sometimes called Florida Holly or Christmasberry, even got to the state of Florida. It was first introduced to the state for decorative purposes due to its bright green leaves and red berries, which is commonly used during Christmas time. The red berries were also dried and used in peppercorn blend cooking spices.

What likely wasn’t widely known at the time is the tree is classified in the same family as Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac, making it less than ideal for yards where children and pets play freely. Allergic reactions, however, don’t have as a severe effect on people as do the other species in its family. Allergic reactions caused by the plant include varying degrees of skin, throat, and lung irritation.

The reason it was probably brought to the US not only for its edible offspring so-to-speak, but because it blooms in the months between September through November. Then, during the month of December the tree produces glossy looking berries grow in clusters that are initially a green color but gradually turn bright red.

About Brazilian Pepper Trees

Unfortunately, there are ill effects to these native Brazilian plants. These trees do kill other vegetation by forming dense thickets and by chemically suppressing the growth of what are known as “understory plants”. Because these trees spread rapidly, they effectively wipe out other kinds and total numbers of wildlife by destroying their usual food and shelter. In addition the pepper plant damages shorelines by disturbing natural fish-breeding habitat through crowding out valuable mangroves, and shallow roots allow erosion.

This shrub/tree is one of the most aggressive and wide-spread of the invasive non-indigenous exotic pest plants in the State of Florida. There are over 700,000 acres in Florida infested with Brazilian pepper tree. Brazilian pepper tree produces a dense canopy that shades out all other plants and provides a very poor habitat for native species. This species invades aquatic as well as terrestrial habitats, greatly reducing the quality of native biotic communities in the state. —University of Florida, Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants

Brazilian pepper grow at a rate of up to 10 feet per year. If the tree is cut down, it will resprout. What’s more, the roots are very difficult to dig up. These trees spread through distribution by birds and animals. Resilient, it’s resistant to natural events like flooding, fire, and even drought. Because they grow near the shoreline, they are of course, able to grow in wet or dry soil, and are salt-tolerant. To top it all off, the state does not have any natural predators to keep them under control.

How to Get Rid of Brazilian Pepper Trees Permanently

Reading the facts above might cause one to throw up one’s hands and just decide to try to burn it out, but that will bring more trouble than it’s worth. Chemicals will probably do the trick, but of course, are a danger to children and family pets, as well as wildlife. Here’s how to get rid of Brazilian pepper trees permanently:

1. Dress appropriately. As everyone familiar with this plant knows, it’s a prickly situation. So, dress in thick clothing, wearing gloves, and eye protection to ward off any allergic reactions.
2. Cut into the tree. Take a chainsaw to the tree, cutting toward the base of the trunk, leaving about a 6 to 12 inches above the soil.
3. Dig a hole around the tree. Using a shovel, begin digging a hole around the root ball, making a wide circle to ensure the whole root system is exposed.
4. Pull up all the roots. Dig up the roots and “root” around in the hole, finding and removing any portions of the root system which may have been severed from the ball.
5. Backfill the hole to finish. Fill the hole and then, keep a sharp eye on it for the next few weeks. If any sprouts appear, dig them up immediately.
6. Sod over the backfill. Once the hole is packed tightly with backfill and soil, install sod over it so the area matches the rest of your yard.

Dangerous Indoor Plants Children and Pet Households Should Avoid

There are seven dangerous indoor plants children and pet households should avoid. Okay, so there are plenty more than on this particular list, but these are among the most common and/or problem-prone. We recently looked at how to reduce spring yard allergens and now, we’re turning inside the house.

People like houseplants because of their benefits. First and foremost, is their beauty, helping to brighten living spaces and make them appear a bit more natural. Also, indoor plants help to improve air quality by taking in carbon monoxide. And, it’s known caring for houseplants is therapeutic, being quite relaxing and rewarding.

7 Dangerous Indoor Plants Children and Pet Households should Avoid

There are a number of houseplants which can add a splash of color to your living space. Some indoor plants really add to the overall decor of a home. With the right ones, you have living accents, centerpieces, and conversation topics. But, if your household is home to children and pets, there are more than a few indoor plants which shouldn’t be grown inside. We all know just how curious pets and children are — curiosity is simply an innate trait.

Have no fear of growing plants in your home; most are perfectly safe. But if you have inquisitive children and pets who may want to chew or crush plants, there are a few varieties to avoid: the handful of plants that can cause allergic skin irritations, stomach upsets, or worse. Some plants are more toxic than others. The good news is that most must be consumed in large quantities to cause any real damage. Often the bitter taste repels a child or pet and stops them from ingesting much of the plant. —Better Homes and Gardens

And, that’s where the trouble lies. Combine some species of plants with curious little creatures and that’s produces a precarious situation. Just like poisonous landscape plants to avoid, there are species which shouldn’t have a place in your home if it’s also home to young ones and pets. Now, the upside is, most toxic plants require a lot of consumption to cause real problems. But, it’s not worth the risk. So, here are seven dangerous indoor plants children and pet households should avoid:

• Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum wallisii). Peace lilies are a flowering indoor plant and are especially popular around Easter. These dark leaf, white flower plants have the additional benefit of being low maintenance. Peace lilies make  great spring decor, so they are not only beautiful, but also easy to care for. However, peace lilies have their downside — Spathiphyllum wallisii is toxic humans, canines, and felines. While safe to touch, peace lilies are dangerous when consumed.
• Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum). Also known as pathos, devil’s ivy is likewise a fairy common indoor plant. A leafy vine, these are also easy to care for but they have a particularly attractive drape. This makes them more tempting to kids and domestic pets. But devil’s ivy isn’t safe for consumption because it causes vomiting and swelling. Like peace lilies, devil’s ivy is safe to touch but definitely not to eat.
• Sago palm (Cycas revoluta). Sago palm is an ancient species of plant and are great for improving indoor air quality. Sago palm has a distinct structure and small ones are a wonderful centerpiece or accent piece. But, Cycas revoluta is highly toxic and like devil’s ivy, it causes vomiting when any portion of the plant is ingested. Sago palm also causes diarrhea, when consumed and it’s even known to cause liver failure.
• Caladium (Caladium). Also known as Elephant Ear, caladium plants boast a variety of bright colors, which makes it a great choice for indoor decor. Caladium’s velvet like leaves make the plant beautiful but unfortunately, a bit too tempting for curious children and pets. Consuming the leaves is dangerous because doing so causes vomiting, diarrhea, swelling, and eye pain.
• Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). A common Christmas ornamental plant, poinsettia is one that’s particularly bright, with red flower. It already has a dangerous reputation for causing vomiting and nausea, but unlike conventional wisdom, won’t cause death. (Many pounds of the plant would have to be ingested to be fatal.)
• English ivy (Hedera helix). Fine vines and pointed leaves make English ivy a natural houseplant. But, this plant makes the danger list because it causes a number of health conditions, which include: rash, ataxia, vomiting, swelling in the throat, weakness, and dermatitis.
• Cyclamen (Cyclamen). A dark leaf plant with bright-colored flowers ranging from red to white is what makes them such a great houseplant to pep up decor. But when ingested, it causes diarrhea and vomiting, so it’s not an idea choice for households with children and pets.

Lawn Sprinkler System Troubleshooting Guide

With summer in full-effect, there’s no time for an unworking sprinkler system. Lawn irrigation is key to keeping the grass healthy and helping to make the landscape look its best. So, when the sprinklers don’t function, it could easily hurt your lawn.

Brown spots might develop and spread across from one side to another, leaving an unsightly presence. So, you need to take action right away to get that irrigation system up and running again.

Don’t worry, with just a few common tools, a bit of trial and effort, and some keys observations, you can troubleshoot and fix your lawn sprinkler system. And, you’ll probably discover one or two unknown problems along the way. The best part of this is, you don’t need to be an experienced technician, just some strategic elbow grease ought to be enough.

Common Sprinkler System Problems

Over the course of our mild Sarasota “winter,” there’s little to no need to water your lawn. The temperatures are typically mild and grass is dormant as precipitation levels fall greatly. As the spring months roll around, you lawn might need a little assistance and that’s where your irrigation system will come-in handy. It’s best to spread fertilizer when it will do the most good, which is just before the break of dawn.

An automatic lawn irrigation system is the best way to keep your lawn looking fresh and green. Correctly designed and programmed, it’ll deliver the right amount of water to your yard— no more moving the sprinkler! But like any other system, it occasionally breaks down or requires maintenance. The good news is you can handle 90 percent of the repairs yourself, even without in-depth knowledge of the system. We’ll show you how to identify and fix the most common problems. —The Family Handyman

By broadcasting healthy grass nutrients and providing ample water, you’ll get the benefits of fresh morning dew and the emergence of sunlight. Using this methodology will allow the nutrients to flow down into the soil and into the root system, providing all your grass needs to take hold and grow green. Of course, you’ll rely on your lawn irrigation system to provide your grass with the water it needs to grow a beautiful yard. If you turn it on for the first time in months, you might experience one of the following common problems: broken sprinkler head(s), main and lateral line leak(s), and/or, control panel problems.

Lawn Sprinkler System Troubleshooting Guide

Just like anything else involving materials and mechanics, a sprinkler system can exhibit a glitch here-and-there. The good news is, as the nearby quote explains, the majority of any problems are simple to address. If you have a few basic tools, a little DIY can-do will be enough to get your yard irrigation system back on-track, just in time for spring. Here’s how to troubleshoot a sprinkler system:

• Titled or sunken sprinkler heads. When heads are tilted or sunken, water distribution will be unequal, even causing grass to effectively “drown.” You can fix this simply by digging around a titled or sunken sprinkler head, right the angle or pulling it up, then, carefully replace soil around it, followed by the sod.
• Blocked sprinkler heads. Over time, obstacles might grow and block a sprinkler head, preventing it from delivering water as it should. This is a very easy fix because all you have to do is remove what’s in-the-way.
• Clogged nozzle. Much like an obstacle, a clogged nozzle will prevent a sprinkler head from spraying water onto your grass. Turn the system off and twist the nozzle gently off the spray head. Remove the filter from the system and clean out using water. Replace the filter and nozzle, then, turn the system back on to finish.
• Main or lateral line leaks. This is where the figure, 9 out of 10 problems can be fixed DIY style, comes into play. For main and lateral line leaks, if you’re comfortable with shutting off the system, digging up the leaking line portion, and coupling a replacement line, then do so. However, if you’re not confident in such necessary skills, it’s best to call a professional.
• Control panel problems. When you first restart your irrigation system, it might have lost its programming schedule due to power outages or just a glitch. Regardless of the problem, consult the owner’s manual to try to pinpoint and correct the problem. You can also reset the system back to the factor settings to start over, if necessary. Should the control panel not perform properly, check the manufacturer’s warranty.

Outdoor Shade Awning Installation How-To

Outdoor awnings are a terrific way to lessen the glare of the sun and reduce the amount of ambient heat coming into the home. They are also decorative and provide an aesthetic improvement to a home’s exterior, deck, or, patio. If you are thinking of adding an outdoor awning to your home, you won’t need extensive contracting experience to do so. In fact, the whole project should take no more than a few hours to complete with the aid of a helping hand.

How to Install an Outdoor Awning for Shade

The great thing about an awning is it serves more than one function. These can be decorative, helping to continue an aesthetic theme of your backyard landscape. In addition, awnings are a cost-effective way of reducing energy use in your home.

Shade Awning Function

The shade an awning provides does much to protect the surface of a deck or patio, and, also protects outdoor furniture fabric from fading and becoming frail. It offers protection from falling debris and other objects while cooking outdoors on a grill.

Creative designers and architects can develop useful and intriguing designs for modern awning and canopy systems that incorporate shape, light, color, texture, graphics and structure, at modest cost. Most awning frames are custom made by cutting, bending and welding metal tubing, and fitting the fabric to the frame. With these custom methods, almost any shape and size can be attained and covered with awning fabric. Hence, the same surface can serve at least three necessary functions: weather protection, identification and architecture. —Awnings.com

If you attach an awning to your home’s exterior to extend over a deck or patio, you’ll also be providing the same protection from the sun on your interior flooring and any furniture that’s under the sun’s rays. In addition to these functions, an awning also does much for energy efficiency. Heat transfer is greatest in windows and doors, which are notorious among homeowners for being energy wasters. During the Sarasota summer months, this is especially important, as an awning can reduce heat transfer for southern windows and doors by 55 to 65 percent. For westerly-facing windows and doors, that figure climbs between 72 to 77 percent.

Do it Yourself Awning Installation

Installing an awning to extend over a patio or deck is not complicated. You really don’t need the skills of an experienced contractor, but, it definitely helps to be handy with common household tools. While you won’t need any specialize tools and/or construction skills, you will need a few key things to install an awning yourself:

What You’ll Need:

• Helper
• Ladders
• Tape measure
• Screw gun and screws
• Caulking gun
• Aluminum awning
• Awning brackets
• Drill and bits

Once you have all your tools and materials ready-to-go, you can then proceed with the installation.

Outdoor Shade Awning Installation Guide

Be sure to wear eye-protection and gloves; it is also beneficial to wear a dust mask if you are pre-drilling pilot holes to secure it to the exterior.

1. Measure once, measure twice. Measure the space where the awning will hang. Write down the width and depth of the porch. Go to a home improvement store or shed retailer and purchase an aluminum awning that conforms to your porch’s size. It is far more cost- and time- efficient to purchase a prefabricated awning than attempting to scrounge up the necessary materials from different sources, buying each separately and matching them for uniformity.
2. Get ready, get set, go. Situate one ladder under the porch eve and the other at the end of the awning. Run a straight-line bead of caulking along the porch eve with a caulking gun. While your helper holds the awning in place, secure it to the eve with screws using a screw gun. While your helper continues to hold the end of the awning up, climb onto the roof overlooking the awning. Spread more caulking between awning and the eve. This is known as the “marriage joint”.
3. Finish the installation. Fold the awning brackets down, if applicable, and set the bracket cleat against the exterior wall of the house. If the brackets are not attached, affix them to the awning with screws, then caulk the screw holes from both sides to prevent rusting. You may have to drill pilot holes in the exterior wall with a drill and appropriate sized bit.

Depending on the size and type of awning you purchased and installed, it might be able to raise and lower it when desired. Some awnings are designed to retract, while others swing on hinge joints, so you can raise or lower them for maximum shade. If it is retractable or does close, it’s a good idea to secure it in the retracted or down position when a storm is forecast to approach.

Water Feature Maintenance Tips You Can Use

A water feature is one of the most soothing and beautiful amenities of a landscape, providing hours of relaxation. These can serve as focal points or can also be an enhancements to a residential landscape design. Water features come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, ranging from simple fountains to complex waterfalls, and must be maintained in order to keep them looking their best. Homeowners learn in a short manner of time that although water features face numerous challenges.

Here in Sarasota, a water feature is something that can mimic a nearby body of water, like Sarasota Bay or the Gulf of Mexico. It can also be used in a way that best fits into a certain design, giving it the peace and tranquility of streaming water or a small pond. Whatever it’s size, shape, or function, a water feature must be maintained in different ways. Ponds can be a great environment for such species as Koi fish while waterfalls can spill into a swimming pool or a pond.

Depending on its surroundings, a water feature can also be a bit of work to keep it looking great. There are many things which can make a water feature appear unsightly, from pollen and leaves, to algae and murky waters. These can range from minor cosmetic problems to major problems, such as leaking. Pests and critters can likewise be problematic for water features, as some like to take-up residence in and around them or claw to find tasty treats under stones.

Low Maintenance Water Features

One of the best steps to take is to choose a water feature that doesn’t require much maintenance. There are a number of low maintenance water features that look great and provide the same relaxing experience, but do so without the fuss. One is the prefabricated fountain, which can be small in size and fit nicely up against a fence or a wall. Some make great patio additions and attract birds. Self-contained bubbling containers are DIY projects that can be made in differing heights and sizes and clustered together to produce trickling water sounds.

Outdoor water features, such as small ponds or trickling fountains, add ambient noise and tranquil beauty to your backyard, to say nothing of their ability to attract colorful wildlife, such as your neighborhood’s songbirds. While specific maintenance needs vary depending on the type and size of your water feature, several tips and strategies can help you keep your water feature running smoothly and its water looking sparkling clear. —San Francisco Chronicle

Miniature ponds are another low maintenance water feature that can be a natural habitat for fish. Most with fish need between 4 and 6 hours of sunlight and must be installed in a place that isn’t drenched with runoff rainwater. Rain is something that can wreak havoc on the water balance and feed impurities into the water, causing an unhealthy fish environment. A water basin is an outdoor feature that contains a hidden reservoir which recycles water, making it a low maintenance amenity. Pondless waterfalls are also low maintenance features, as these too recycle water.

Water Feature Maintenance

Your water feature is probably under constant assault–rainwater, twigs, sticks, leaves, bugs, pollen, and even the sun can all prove problematic. The best way to keep maintenance to a minimum is to take proactive care by doing the following things:

• Use distilled water. If your water feature is small enough, you can fill it with distilled water. If you use a garden hose and fill your feature with water, you’re introducing fluoride and calcium. These can be a real nuisance, causing moving parts to become corroded, promote bacteria and algae growth, and cause strange odors, as well as murky the water.
• Net regularly. If there’s anything that falls into your water feature, grab your net and fish it out. The more foreign objects and debris that remain in the water, the more damage it will do, especially over long periods. This stuff is not only unsightly, it’s unhealthy for the water.
• Change the water. Your water feature will be exposed to organic waste, such as bird droppings, and this does have an adverse impact on the water. These can produce scum, algae blooms, and bubbling foam. By changing the water at least twice a year, your feature will look better and be less to maintain.
• Shade it from the sun. You might not think the sun to be a problem for your water feature, but it is because it speeds-up evaporation levels. It also is a source of energy to grow algae and other growths. If you place potted plants around it and/or add aquatic plants to shade at least 60 percent of the water.

You can also prune nearby trees, especially those which produce a lot of pollen or seeds. Not only do these organic invaders cause the water balance to fall off and can be the source of an algae bloom, too much can become a problem for recycling systems.

DIY Water Feature Freeze Protection Tips You Can Use

Depending on where you live in the country, be it in sunny Sarasota, Florida, or up north, you’ll experience freezing temperature during the winter months. In places like the Sunshine State, although infrequent, cold snaps cause temperatures to fall to at or below freezing, which typically happens in the months of January and February. What’s more, in places like Sarasota, said freezing temperatures generally last no more than a day or two and the mercury rises steeply in some instances with wild swings.

Of course, in the northeast and midwest, freezing temperatures are present during most of the winter, and, are not at all unusual. This means nearly regardless of your location, your landscape will have to survive through freezing temperatures.

During the winter, we often here about ways to keep plants, pets, and pools safe through freezes. However, not much attention is paid to water features. And, the absence of reminders can easily lead to an unpleasant and expensive reality of having to make repairs. These can range from quick fixes to all-out replacement, depending on the severity of the weather.

Types of Damage Water Features Experience During a Freeze

As the nearby quote states, damages sustained from freezing conditions to a water feature can range from minor to major. Depending on the severity of the temperatures, exposure level, and length of exposure, pumps can freeze, causing them to seize up, and, pools or ponds containing fish can freeze over, trapping noxious gases, causing fish to die.

Even in the warmest locales in the United States, nighttime temperatures may occasionally dip into the thirties. When they do, your outdoor water features are in danger of freezing over. A frozen feature may lead to broken seals and a faulty pump, so a little cold weather preparation will certainly pay off. Because each water feature is different, there is no standard set of rules for cold weather protection. However, arming yourself with a few nearly universal tips and tricks will help keep your water feature pumping for years to come. —San Francisco Chronicle

Other types of damages caused by freezing conditions can be a break in the integrity of a structural water feature, such as cement or ceramic wall. When this happens, it might lead to small leaks, which eventually grow larger and larger. The ensuing compromise can even lead to outright collapse or breaking apart, and can be a very costly situation to fix.

DIY Water Feature Freeze Protection Tips You can Use

With temperatures falling steadily, water features, such as fountains, pools, ponds, and waterfalls will be at-risk for damage from freezes. The best way to protect such hardscaping is to be proactive, not waiting until sustained cold grips. Here are some ways to protect water features from freezing conditions:

• Remove any plants. If there are any plants on or near your outdoor water feature, it’s best to move them to a warm place where you can water and feed them as needed. If possible, this makes for a better choice than trying to cover them before the real cold hits.
• Allow the water to run. If you’re in a location such as Sarasota or Manatee County, freezes will likely only occur for a few hours. Let the water continue to run and the motion will prevent hard freezing, which, in prolonged periods of freezing temperatures, could harm the pump.
• Install a de-icer. For water features with fish or ones that have running water, a de-icer will do the trick. Running water that’s warm enough will continue to swirl and that will provide shelter for fish. A de-icer will also keep the water from freezing over solid, which can cause a lot of damage. Choose a machine that fits your size water feature for the best results.
• Drain, flush, and cover. If a de-icer is not a viable option or you don’t want to exercise that alternative, then it’s best to drain the water completely. Flush out the system by pumping out any remaining water, disconnect the pump and water supply, and cover the entire feature. You can also stuff insulation over the pump before covering it with a tarp. Or, store the pump in a warm, slightly damp location to keep seals from drying out.
• Check the water feature periodically. On occasion, lift the cover to see if any snow or ice has melted and run back into the water feature. If it has, drain it out because if it fills and then freezes, it will probably expand enough to crack the feature.

While these steps will help to protect your water hardscape during the winter, other methods should be completely avoided, like adding chemicals to the water. This is not a good idea because you don’t know how the water or the feature itself will react. In addition, chemicals could wreak havoc with the filter and pump system.

How to Choose a Fire Pit

With the weather changing there’s no better time than to enjoy the outdoors, day or night. It’s a great time to entertain guests, taking in the delight of the wonderful breeze coming off the Gulf of Mexico, winding its way through the shores to inland Sarasota.

Now is the time to get your backyard ready and looking its best. Aesthetics and function will be the center focus of creating an outdoor oasis, complete with one of the most versatile features of any home, the fire pit. It can serve more than one function, from a heat source, to an aesthetic, to a cooking appliance, to a place to gather around and roast marshmallows.

Fortunately, fire pits come in all shapes and sizes, which presents a predicament in choosing the right one. They come in portable models, made of copper and cast iron, as well as stone fire pits, which are often built in a particular spot. Generally, those hardscape features are surrounded by seating, which too, can be portable or fixed in position.

Where You should Put Your Fire Pit

When deciding what type of fire pit you’d like to add to your outdoor living space, you definitely ought to factor location into the equation. It must be a level location and one that’s at least seven feet away from combustibles, such as wood, plants, and even structures like your home, your pergola, or pool house. Other factors you must consider is prevailing wind direction and the local fire codes as to where it can be placed, how large it can be, and what you are allowed and not allowed to burn inside it.

[Fall] is here and that means backyard parties, get-togethers, bbq’s and relaxing evenings outside. Only one thing can make any of these events even better and that is a fire pit. Outdoor fire pits can be used as a gathering spot for socializing with guests at a party or a place to simply de-stress after a long day at work. Very few patio adornments are as multi-dimensional as fire pits. —Garden.com

In addition to these factors, you’ll also need to take into account how it will most be used and seating arrangement. Some of your guests will opt to sit closer to enjoy the heat while other will choose to sit a bit further away to avoid smoke. Be sure to leave plenty of space for people to walk, because too little space presents a safety hazard. Spacing between seats is likewise important, giving people elbow room so not to be too cramped, seated too close to one another.

How to Choose a Fire Pit

The type of fire pit you choose will ultimately come down to your budget, for a simple solution, chimineas are a nice, inexpensive choice. Free-standing fire pits are typically larger and a bit more expensive than chimineas, but come in a great variety of sizes and constructed material, from aluminum, to stainless steel, to copper, to stone and metal. They also vary in shape, usually circular or square, while a few will be other shapes. These are the most popular choices available:

• Electric fire pits are no-fuss models, generally costing more than chimineas and free-standing models, and are ideal for people who like to flip a switch to turn the flames on or off. These are a great choice for homeowners who don’t want to deal with lingering coals and cleaning-up ashes. These are made with weather resistant materials, like other models, and have a long lifespan.
• Gas fire pits cost about as much as electric models and also come in a wide variety of materials, shapes, and sizes. The shapes and aesthetics are quite diverse, square, round, octangular, rectangular, and so on. Some are fitted with stone or brick, while others made to look more modern.
• Outdoor fireplaces are at the top of the luxury list, offering stunning aesthetics with plenty of function. These can be pre-made or built from the ground up and are the most costly of models. Akin to these models are fire pit tables, which are great for entertaining because they are specifically designed to accommodate plates and glasses.

Choosing the Right Fire Pit

As stated, this will come down to budget, as well as how much time and effort you’re willing to put into the project. You can choose a portable model, one that’s free-standing, or build one in a particular place. You should choose one that fits your outdoor theme and fits your desired use. In addition, consider size and space requirements, as well as seating arrangement and capacity.

When you have your fire pit set up, always keep a garden hose and a fire extinguisher nearby. Clean it regularly to avoid any unpleasant surprises, you might accidentally cook something unexpected.