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How To Make a Clay Pot Smoker
Terra cotta pots are one of the single most versatile household items. These are not only ideal for planting flowers, but also, to convert into fountains, make wonderful outdoor aesthetic decorations, and serve many more purposes. What you might not know is just how durable clay pots really are and what they can be used for, other than plants.
In fact, these are so versatile and durable, they date back to antiquity, used for storing food, grain, and many other items. A little known fact about clay pots is they are the reason for the word, “insincere.” While that might sound quite strange, even fantastic, it’s nonetheless true. When a potter made a clay pot that wasn’t up to standards, it could be revealed by holding it up to the sunlight. If there was a defect in the glaze, it would be apparent, and the phrase “insincere” was used to describe it.
Today, terra cotta is still very popular, precisely because of its simplicity and many uses. They can hold plants, water, and be used indoors and outside. One surprising use it to convert a clay pot into a smoker. Before you think it’s too difficult and requires tools, you can make a clay pot smoker in a short amount of time, and, with little effort. You don’t need a big work space or specialized skills, just a terra cotta pot and a few materials.
Repurposing for Landscaping and Entertaining
One great thing about landscaping is the fact that you can use all kinds of common household items for different purposes. For instance, you can take an old wood ladder, give it a good sanding, brush on a coat of paint, and now, you have shelving for plants. An unstable wooden chair can make a great porch swing. Just saw off the wobbly legs, fasten four eye hooks to the chair, and then hang it.
True barbecue involves cooking meat over low heat for a long time – often for many hours. Though you may have a grill, but having to manage the fire for hours isn’t a lot of fun. Smokers like the Weber Smokey Mountain start around $300 – and still others start at about $700+, like the Big Green Egg! —Makezine.com
Old tires can be transformed into planters, while an old bed headboard can be made into an outdoor table. Take the shelves out of an old bookshelf, line it with landscape fabric or plastic, and turn it into a small composting bin. If you use your imagination, you’ll come-up with quite a few uses for old items to give them new life in your landscape. For instance, empty wine bottles can serve as citronella candle holders to keep mosquitoes at-bay when you are entertaining.
First 3 Steps to Make a Clay Pot Smoker
If you want to enjoy the taste of slow-cooked barbecue, you don’t have to resign yourself to buying an expensive smoker. For a lot less money, you can make a clay pot into a smoker, and here’s how to do that in five easy steps:
- Gather needed tools and materials. You’ll need a terra cotta pot (of course), a pot drain pan, a hotplate burner, grill grate, three or four clay pot feet, gate handle, nuts and bolts, drill-driver, grill thermometer, some gravel, and cast iron or stainless steel skillet.
- Drill holes for the burner wiring, the handle, and thermometer. To start the assembly, drill holes as needed to accommodate the burner and to fasten the gate handle. You should drill the holes a few inches from the bottom on one side of the pot. The handle is optional, as there are many clay pots that come with a cover and handle. One more hole should be drilled into the cover to accommodate the thermometer to easily monitor temperature.
- Attach the legs to the bottom. Turn the pot upside down and attach the legs. You’ll have to drill holes into the bottom if the pot is not already equipped with legs. As an alternative, you can skip attaching legs and just set the pot on bricks.
Last 2 Steps to Make a Clay Pot Smoker
- Fill the bottom with loose gravel. To keep the bottom in-tact, it needs to be insulated with loose gravel that will support the burner. Place the burner on top of the gravel and feed the wires through the holes you drilled in the side. Then, place the skillet on top of the burner–this is where the wood chips will go when you’re ready to cook.
- Fix the grill grate into place. Now, you can place the grill grate inside the pot, pushing it down until it is snug. There ought to be some space between the skillet and the grill grate, enough to accommodate wood chips but not much more.
That’s all you need to do to make a smoker out of a clay pot! Now, you can smoke your meat and enjoy the wonderful slow-cooked taste.
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Keeping Rain Barrel Water Clean and Mosquito Free
The rain barrel, an ancient and efficient way of temporarily storing water for those not-so-rainy days or dry spells. Used for irrigating plants and lawns, vegetable and flower gardens, even for washing clothes. They’re also used for drinking water when properly distilled. So, these devices are a great way of cutting down costs and conserving water.
Generally, homeowners install rain barrels under a drain spout connected to a gutter system on their houses. When it rains, the gutters channel the rainwater down through the spout and into the barrel. For areas like ours, where rain is a common occurrence, especially in the summer, these simple collection devices are a smart way to harness the power of nature’s wet nourishment.
Like with most things in life and landscaping, there’s some trade-off for free future irrigation and these particular problems come in two forms: stale, dirty water and disease carrying mosquitoes. When a rain barrel is full, the water begins to stagnate, slowly creating a stench; and, any standing water is quite attractive to the local mosquito population.
Keeping Rain Barrel Water Clean
The reason for rainwater stagnating isn’t the water itself, so-to-speak. It becomes stagnate and “dirty” when organic matter is introduced into it. During a rainstorm, it’s common for a lot of organic matter to be carried by running rain water channeled through a gutter system. Leaves, insects, sticks, and more are all swept away, particularly during a downpour. That’s why most homeowners elect to put a filter of sorts at the end of the downspout, to keep said organic matter out of the water.
Rainwater collection is an age–old technology that has long been used in arid southwestern places such as Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico, as well as states like California and Nevada, where growing populations are stressing limited water supplies. Lately, though, it’s been finding new practitioners even in more well-saturated environs, where rising water bills and dwindling rainfall levels are making homeowners think twice before blasting the tap. —This Old House
By cutting off outside contaminates, it’s possible to keep the rain “fresh” for several weeks, even months. A tightly closed lid and “sealed” system will keep the water free of organic matter; and, hence, no stench. Another trick is to keep the sunlight out. When sunlight hits the water, algae can start to bloom, which is organic, creating the same problem. A small dose of chlorine bleach will keep algae from blooming and will evaporate away in a few days, making it safe for watering plants. A single cup of vinegar or putting charcoal at the bottom will also keep the water clean.
Of course, you should clean it well after use to keep the barrel itself intact. Regular cleaning will prevent things from festering and growing after collecting rainwater and will help to ensure better quality water for your landscaping and gardening needs. Last but not least, if you do have a continual problem with odor emanating from your barrel, it could be the design. Containers with spigots placed too high will collect rain below that line and sit, therefore stagnating, contaminating the entire contents.
Keeping Mosquitoes Away from Your Rain Barrel
Another common problem with a water tank is that any standing water attracts mosquitoes. That’s not good for a number of reasons, the least of which are annoying bites that cause itching. Because these tiny blood thirsty insects breed in and around standing water, a water butt is the perfect place to take-up residence.
To keep mosquitoes away, the barrel should not only be closed-off, but proofed. In other words, don’t leave water lingering on the top, if it’s a truly closed system. Warding off mosquitoes can be done with these three simple, easy to do solutions:
- Liquid dish soap. Add just one tablespoon once per week or after a storm. By doing this, you’re creating a thin film on the surface of the water. This breaks the surface tension and what that does is drown any mosquitoes that might find their way into the container. They die off before they can lay eggs, but, now you’ve potentially got organic matter that will break down.
- Mosquito dunks. These contain what’s called “bacillus thuringiensis israelensis” or Bti. You sink one dunk per month or as they are needed and it kills the larvae of mosquitoes and blackflies. It works by dissolving and releasing bacteria.
- Vegetable oil. A quarter cup of vegetable oil applied weekly or after a storm will do much the same thing as dish soap. The difference here is, the larvae are suffocated by the floating layer of oil.
With these little tips and tricks, you can easily keep your barrel water from stagnating and repel mosquitoes, making it free to use for watering your garden or lawn.
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Is Rain Water Harmful to a Pool?
Living in the Sunshine State on the west coast in beautiful Sarasota is laid-back living at its best. The weather isn’t the only attractive thing about this sub-tropical paradise, it’s got plenty else to offer, from world-class beaches, to fine museums, to nightlife, and all sorts of outdoor recreational opportunities. Biking, canoeing, hiking, golf, tennis, boating, and so much more are always just around the corner.
Because of the fine weather, which does tend to heat up to toasty temperatures during the summer, rain storms are part of the equation. The rain is soothing, creating a comforting, lazy sound that falls on rooftops. It also helps to keep swimming pools quite full, but that’s not a real benefit because rain is certainly not a pool’s best friend. Though it might keep evaporation levels flat, it does far more harm than good. Most homeowners really don’t stop to think about this, but it’s the truth.
Though rainwater might be natural, just because it’s organic, falling from the sky, it nevertheless contains acidity. While most light rains won’t move the pH balance needle, a good drenching can easily do just that. Since we live in such an active area, rain storms are quite common, particularly during the summer months, when inch upon inch can fall for days.
Why Rainwater is Harmful to a Pool
In its composition, rainwater contains acids, powerful enough to throw-off pH balance and that’s not all. It also compromises the effectiveness of chlorine. When chlorine is diluted, it no longer functions as it should to keep pool water clean. What’s more, rainfall creates runoff. Though pools are often surrounded with a rim, the splashing effect can be enough to introduce fertilizers and other landscaping chemicals into a pool.
Maintaining the proper chemistry in a swimming pool can be very difficult. Heavy rain can greatly influence the chemical balance of pool water in several ways, including a serious effect on chlorine levels. While readjusting your pool water balance after a heavy rain can be frustrating and confusing, it is important to maintain your water chemistry because an unbalanced pool is unsafe to swim in. —San Francisco Chronicle
While this is typically minor, combined with pests, decomposing leaves and other debris, it becomes more problematic. The presence of rainwater alone lowers chlorine levels and that has a two-pronged effect. It not only dilutes, allowing bacteria to grow, but also create an environment which algae can begin to grow. This compromising state makes the water unhealthy to swim in and even exposes the pool’s finish and equipment to harm.
How to Keep Your Swimming Pool Well Maintained
After a steady or hard rain storm, your pool’s pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels, can all be affected enough to be off by considerable margins. As stated above, a light rain shower isn’t likely to move the levels off by much, but if that light rainfall happens for a few days, the chances of those levels falling off increase somewhat remarkably.
Once the rain has gone and the forecast is clear for the next several days, you should take steps to maintain your pool to return it to good health and to protect swimmers’ health as well. Here are some things you should do:
- Clean your pool. Skim your pool and rid it of floating debris, such as bugs, leaves, pollen, and anything else that’s in it. In addition, you should manually vacuum your pool or set the automatic vacuum to run a full cycle.
- Test the water chemical levels. Once clean of all debris, it’s time to check the pH and alkalinity levels. These might be off significantly if the rain event was hard or lasted for a long time. It isn’t uncommon for alkalinity levels to be quite different from pH levels.
- Check the sanitizer and chlorine levels. The sanitizer and chlorine levels will also probably be off because rainwater introduces contaminants into the water. Return these to normal to again sanitize your pool.
- Check the water level. Rainfall, of course, increases the water level in your swimming pool. Because it does, your pool might be overfilled. Simply use the “waste” setting on the filter to bring the water level back to normal.
If the rain event lasted for more than a day or was significant in amount, then you might consider shocking your pool. This isn’t absolutely necessary, but it is a good idea after a big rain storm. This is a good extra measure to take to ensure that the water is safe to swim in and help to guard against the next rain storm.
Should the water be cloudy or contain algae, shocking it is a necessity. Always avoid swimming in a pool after a rain storm, because it’s highly likely that contaminated runoff water is permeating through the water.
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Water Feature Maintenance Tips You Can Use
A water feature is one of the most soothing and beautiful amenities of a landscape, providing hours of relaxation. These can serve as focal points or can also be an enhancements to a residential landscape design. Water features come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, ranging from simple fountains to complex waterfalls, and must be maintained in order to keep them looking their best. Homeowners learn in a short manner of time that although water features face numerous challenges.
Here in Sarasota, a water feature is something that can mimic a nearby body of water, like Sarasota Bay or the Gulf of Mexico. It can also be used in a way that best fits into a certain design, giving it the peace and tranquility of streaming water or a small pond. Whatever it’s size, shape, or function, a water feature must be maintained in different ways. Ponds can be a great environment for such species as Koi fish while waterfalls can spill into a swimming pool or a pond.
Depending on its surroundings, a water feature can also be a bit of work to keep it looking great. There are many things which can make a water feature appear unsightly, from pollen and leaves, to algae and murky waters. These can range from minor cosmetic problems to major problems, such as leaking. Pests and critters can likewise be problematic for water features, as some like to take-up residence in and around them or claw to find tasty treats under stones.
Low Maintenance Water Features
One of the best steps to take is to choose a water feature that doesn’t require much maintenance. There are a number of low maintenance water features that look great and provide the same relaxing experience, but do so without the fuss. One is the prefabricated fountain, which can be small in size and fit nicely up against a fence or a wall. Some make great patio additions and attract birds. Self-contained bubbling containers are DIY projects that can be made in differing heights and sizes and clustered together to produce trickling water sounds.
Outdoor water features, such as small ponds or trickling fountains, add ambient noise and tranquil beauty to your backyard, to say nothing of their ability to attract colorful wildlife, such as your neighborhood’s songbirds. While specific maintenance needs vary depending on the type and size of your water feature, several tips and strategies can help you keep your water feature running smoothly and its water looking sparkling clear. —San Francisco Chronicle
Miniature ponds are another low maintenance water feature that can be a natural habitat for fish. Most with fish need between 4 and 6 hours of sunlight and must be installed in a place that isn’t drenched with runoff rainwater. Rain is something that can wreak havoc on the water balance and feed impurities into the water, causing an unhealthy fish environment. A water basin is an outdoor feature that contains a hidden reservoir which recycles water, making it a low maintenance amenity. Pondless waterfalls are also low maintenance features, as these too recycle water.
Water Feature Maintenance
Your water feature is probably under constant assault–rainwater, twigs, sticks, leaves, bugs, pollen, and even the sun can all prove problematic. The best way to keep maintenance to a minimum is to take proactive care by doing the following things:
- Use distilled water. If your water feature is small enough, you can fill it with distilled water. If you use a garden hose and fill your feature with water, you’re introducing fluoride and calcium. These can be a real nuisance, causing moving parts to become corroded, promote bacteria and algae growth, and cause strange odors, as well as murky the water.
- Net regularly. If there’s anything that falls into your water feature, grab your net and fish it out. The more foreign objects and debris that remain in the water, the more damage it will do, especially over long periods. This stuff is not only unsightly, it’s unhealthy for the water.
- Change the water. Your water feature will be exposed to organic waste, such as bird droppings, and this does have an adverse impact on the water. These can produce scum, algae blooms, and bubbling foam. By changing the water at least twice a year, your feature will look better and be less to maintain.
- Shade it from the sun. You might not think the sun to be a problem for your water feature, but it is because it speeds-up evaporation levels. It also is a source of energy to grow algae and other growths. If you place potted plants around it and/or add aquatic plants to shade at least 60 percent of the water.
You can also prune nearby trees, especially those which produce a lot of pollen or seeds. Not only do these organic invaders cause the water balance to fall off and can be the source of an algae bloom, too much can become a problem for recycling systems.
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No Grinder DIY Stump Removal
There it is, rising from out of the ground, interrupting the continuity of your beautifully landscaped lawn, that ugly, slowly rotting stump. The felled tree once attached to it sits neatly stacked in a firewood pile or has long left your property. Yet, that stump remains; and, though you’ve considered repurposing it to make it into a base for a bird bath or another feature, it’s deteriorating steadily.
That’s a problem in itself, because as it does so, it becomes a haven for pests that will wreak havoc on your lawn, garden, and their very presence will attract others who are looking for prey. Now, you’re praying there’s an easy way to get rid of it, without having to go through the time and effort of renting a machine grinder or a stump removal service.
The good news is, depending on how much patience you can muster, there are several options for DIY stump removal. Some take longer than others and though there are products available which claim to magically dissolve the entire thing, that’s more marketing than magic.
Renting a Machine or Hiring a Service
If you believe you can handle a machine, then it’s worth a shot to rent one and try it out. Be aware that these machines are not for the faint of heart, meaning, they require quite a bit of muscle. Handling a grinder isn’t an easy task and there’s a lot which can go wrong. Grinders present safety hazards and must be used with care. What’s more, not only do they require muscle, they are typically unwieldy machines, vibrating in a manner that will have you trembling for quite some time after using one.
You can remove a stump by renting a power stump grinder, but another way is to buy a can of stump remover (available at most garden or home centers). Most brands are made of powdered potassium nitrate, which speeds up the rotting process. You simply pour the granules into drilled holes and fill the holes with water. The stump will become pretty spongy after four to six weeks. Keep kids and pets away. Then you can break out the rotten wood with an ax. —The Family Handyman
Hiring a service is another option, but one that’s going to be more expensive than renting a machine. If you choose to go this route, be sure to check them out, especially their license and insurance. Of course, if you find a service that quotes a bargain basement price, that’s generally a red flag. You need to ask questions to ensure you’re not hiring someone that’s going to leave your property off worse. It bears repeating, but these machines are dangerous and if you hire someone that’s inexperienced, you might be looking at an insurance claim or filing a lawsuit.
DIY Stump Removal without a Grinder
Should you decide against hiring a service and don’t want to try and manhandle a grinder, there are other options to remove a stump. Here are some steps to follow for you to get the job done:
- Cut it down to size. It starts with a chainsaw and cutting it as close to the ground as possible. Suit yourself up with eye protection, a pair of work gloves, and a well-oiled chainsaw. Then fire it up and cut it, you can saw the wood into smaller pieces to burn later on.
- Soften the remaining stump. Now, it’s on to potassium nitrate or saltpeter. Drill several holes into the top using a one inch bit, about eight to ten inches deep each, spaced at least three to four inches apart. Boil some water, then pour the potassium nitrate into those holes and pour the boiling water into the holes. This will cause the potassium nitrate to break down and absorb into the stump to do its stuff.
- Leave it work for awhile. It will take about a month to six weeks, perhaps as much as eight weeks, for it to work through the stump and penetrate deep toward the root ball.
- Apply an accelerant to the stump. Pour one to two gallons of kerosene or lamp oil onto the stump, but do not substitute those for gasoline. This will take about two to three weeks to absorb deep into the stump and will have to be repeated at least once thereafter to get the job done.
- Burn it out. Once the kerosene or lamp oil has been applied at least twice over four to six weeks, then it’s time to set it ablaze. Check with your local fire department to learn about any open fires. Clear the immediate area around it if there’s leaves or fallen branches to ensure it won’t accidentally spread. Put that stuff on top of the stump into the holes, and strike a match.
It will take anywhere from a couple of days to nearly a week for it to be reduced to ashes. Once it is, simply rake it up and backfill the hole with a soil of your choosing.
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Daffodil Growing Care For Beginners
Daffodils make wonderful indoor or outdoor plants. Up north and in the plain states, daffodils are sometimes used to bring a breath of spring indoors during the winter. But here in sunny west-central Florida, with very few days near freezing, you can enjoy this beautiful bulb practically anytime of year. Distinguished by their yellow, white, and orange flowers, usually with six tepal and trumpet-shaped corona, these are popular plants which go back to antiquity.
You can grow daffodils indoors or outdoors and some people prefer to start their growth cycle inside and then transfer the flowers to an outdoor garden after some weeks.
About Daffodils
Part of the bulbiferous geophytes, daffodils or narcissus poeticus, have been around mankind for quite some time. In fact, these plants go back to ancient civilization. What’s more, the origin of its scientific classification remains a mystery to this day. However, it is known these plants are toxic. Like other dangerous plants children and pet households should avoid, daffodils contain the alkaloid poison lycorine.
Daffodils bring cheer to the spring garden with abundant flowers in hues of yellow, white, pink, and salmon. Varieties are available in a range of sizes and forms. Flowers may be single or double, grow singly on a stem or with multiple flowers per stem, and height varies from 6 to 20 inches. Daffodils grow best in areas with cold winters, cool springs, and cool summers. Choose varieties that mature at different times to extend the bloom season. Unlike many spring-flowering bulbs, daffodil bulbs are not eaten by mice or voles. —Garden.org
When ingested, daffodils are known to cause acute abdominal pain, nausea, diarrhea, and vomiting. Additionally, ingestion of daffodils can also cause trembling, convulsions, paralysis, and even death. They are known to have been a method of suicide in the ancient world and remained so through later centuries. So, it’s best to keep these plants out-of-reach of children and pest, if grown indoors or even in an outdoor garden.
Daffodil Growing Care for Beginners
Daffodils, part of the genus narcissus, are perennials. This means they generally live more than two years. Like other perennial plants, daffodils will grow and bloom during the spring, as well as the summer, then die over the fall and winter months. When spring arrives again, daffodils will come back to life and repeat the cycle. If you want to enjoy the beauty of daffodils, but are new to these plants, you just need to know a little daffodil bulb care for beginners:
- Plant seed pods in a pot. You can purchase a “kit” or daffodil seed pods from a nursery. Be sure to inquire about the size of the pot so the roots have plenty of room to take hold. Place the pot near a window, where the plant can receive sunlight. But, do not place it in direct sunlight as this can burn the plant’s foliage. Direct sunlight also causes the blooms to lose their color and fade away quickly. The room temperature should remain about 70 degrees. Place a drain pan below the pot to catch the runoff water.
- Check the soil regularly. About once or twice a week, gently poke your finger into the soil to detect the amount of moisture. If the top inch begins to feel dry, water the plant. After watering your daffodils, check the pan for water about every half hour for one to two hours. Empty the tray to prevent the soil from becoming too soggy.
- Prune the plants when needed. When the blooms begin to fade, gently snip any spent flowers just beneath the base. Do not remove the remaining stems because these will continue to absorb energy from the sun and nutrients from the soil.
- Fertilize about every two weeks. Use a soluble balanced fertilizer but do so only about every two weeks after the last of the flowers fade. This is especially a good practice for transplanting into an outdoor garden. Be sure to check the fertilizer for its strength so the daffodils do not receive too much.
- Transplant the flowers to an outdoor garden. Now, you can transplant the flowers to your outdoor garden. Plant in a well-drained spot, with filtered sunlight exposure. You can place daffodils in direct sunlight, but the flower colors will fade quicker and die off sooner. Allow the leaves to die back on their own, in a natural manner.
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How to Prep Pinewood Lumber to Use as Decking
Pinewood lumber can be used for many applications. After pine is cut, the wood can be assembled into a piece of furniture, made into a derby car, fabricated into another form, or be used as decking. However, it must be painted, varnished or lacquered to preserve the finish to keep from rotting. Regardless of the final product, pinewood is susceptible to not only rot but to stains and other markings. Sealing pinewood and drying it properly will protect it. Although pine can be purchased pre-treated, some adventurous do-it-yourself types enjoy prepping the wood.
Pinewood Deck Benefits
Like any other material, there are different ways to customize a wood deck to really make it your own. Homeowners have many choices when it comes to deck materials, such as redwood and composite. But pinewood is also a great choice because of the benefits it offers. Unlike other types of wood, pine is significantly less expensive due to its ubiquity. It’s also easy to maintain, when properly treated. This is why so many homeowners choose pressurized, pre-treated pinewood. True treated pine can last between 10 and 15 years, with minimal maintenance.
For many reasons like durability, low-cost and safety, treated pine decking is becoming more and more popular. The attempt to make decks long-lasting, economical and safer lead to the evolution of the science behind treated pine. Many people might prefer redwood or cedar for their deck but using treated pine you can have the same benefits or even more, and it is a lot cheaper than the other options. —Do It Yourself.com
Pine also boasts a rustic aesthetic, with its many knots and rough edges. What’s more, pine is very eco-friendly. Even when treated, pine doesn’t pollute and can safely be burned at the end of its lifespan. A huge advantage pine has over other types of wood is its ability to absorb less heat and remains cool. That alone is a great combination to have during those long hot, summer days in Florida. Besides, installing a deck is just one of many fall landscaping ideas.
How to Prep Pinewood Lumber to Use as Decking
It is best to purchase pre-treated pine lumber for your deck but you can prep the wood on your own, if you like. The advantage of buying pre-treated is the wood is pressurized, maximizing the treatment applications, causing the lumber to last longer, even under heavy use conditions. But, you can prep it yourself by doing the following:
- Place all the pine in one room. Choose a room or space that is dry and dust free as possible. You can use a garage, shed or another type of climate controlled space. It’s got to be free of floating debris and well-ventilated.
- Begin to prep the pine lumber. Lay newspaper out over a table, then set the pinewood lumber or assembly on the newspaper. Leave the paint, lacquer or varnish to dry on the bare pinewood. Do not attach any metal or plastic hardware at this juncture or you may smudge the finish.
- Apply paint, varnish, or lacquer. Consult the label on the paint, varnish or lacquer for the manufacturer’s suggested drying time. Be sure to apply two to three coats, allowing each ample time to dry.
- Wait until the treatment dries completely. Set a timer to go off for the appropriate time — this may be as little as 30 minutes or as long as 48 hours. Do not rush the process or it won’t result in a lasting deck board product.
- Test the pine lumber to ensure it’s ready to-go. Gently touch the pinewood with the tip of one finger after the timer has sounded. If it is tacky, allow to dry longer and check periodically until the finish dries completely.
- Build your base and install the pinewood over it. Once the pinewood is treated, you can then build the deck base, using whatever material you prefer. It’s usually best to go with wood but you can also use other types of materials. When the base is complete, you can install the pine on top of it to finish.
If it’s time to update your landscape or add more features, like a new deck, don’t hesitate to contact us. We are a full-service, professional landscape design company and serve all of Sarasota, including near Bayfront Drive, around Rolling Green Golf Club, along Longboat Club Road, and elsewhere.
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Ways to Improve Your Deck
If your deck looks a bit worse for the wear and the life seems to be zapped out of it, you can give it a makeover with some smart improvements. Homeowners love their outdoor spaces, when the weather permits. Regardless of where you live in the country, chances are excellent your deck takes a beating year in and year out. Even though it might be built of sturdy materials, designed to withstand the elements, that doesn’t make it impervious. Over time, said elements will exact a toll, starting with minor but noticeable signs of wear and expanding into unavoidable, unsightly, problems.
The good news is, that in the majority of cases, unless the damage is extreme, the structure can be saved. It might not be one-hundred percent salvageable, but, you’ll have quite a bit to work with to rebuild. If your deck looks worn but the structure is intact and not compromised, you can elect to refurbish your deck to save money. This will allow you to keep the current configuration, while giving it some long lasting protection to keep it looking great for many years to come.
How to Clean a Wood Deck
The truth of the matter is, if your deck is built of actual wood, it will need attention from time to time. To cut down on replacing parts, you ought to clean it about once a quarter to six months. Do this with plain soap and water, using a broom to brush it clean. This will significantly extend its longevity, and, will also reduce the amount of work to refurbish it periodically. The best time to clean your deck is during the spring, when pollen is at its peak. Doing so will reduce the amount of food sources for mildew to grow.
Outside decks are great additions to any home, whether they are in the back yard or set up like a veranda. However, there are always a few things you can do to improve your deck, in regards to both safety and overall aesthetics. As well as enhancing your railing, you can also set up screening, provide safe passage, include a small garden, have built-in seating and use the surrounding nature as design elements. —Houzz.com
When you do clean your deck, take the time to do it right. First, clear it off completely, leaving nothing behind. Next, inspect every square inch of the structure to identify any problem areas. You might discover a bit of rot in a corner, or, find pests camping underneath. When you’re ready to clean it, use a commercial cleaner appropriate for the materials. Once clean and dry, then apply stain-sealant to give it added protection. It ought to look new when you’re finished.
Ways to Improve Your Deck
After you’ve revived your worn deck, you might take it a step further and make a few improvements to add more flare and function to your outdoor living space. Here are a few ways to improve your deck:
- Replace the furniture. This is a quick and easy way to completely remake the space inexpensively and smartly. You’ll be able to change the style, color, and seating arrangement, just enough to completely transform it into something else. For a bit more function and style, choose a table with an over-sized umbrella for shade.
- Hang a swing. Hanging a swing not only provides a nice aesthetic touch, it also gives the space more function, and fun. A swing is a great place to sit and unwind, gaze out into the evening sky, and have a conversation.
- Put in a planter. This is a feature you might not have considered, but it’s actually a great way to add more visual appeal while providing a subtle dividing line. By building a planter from the same wood material, or, even choosing something that complements yet provides a bit of contrast, you’ll have a dedicated section for a dining area, lounge seating, or whatever you’d like.
- Add a built-in bench. If there’s one thing that’s true about most decks, it’s that only a portion of all available space is utilized. Add a built-in bench to the rail and provide more seating, along with a more stylish look.
- Install an awning. No, not one of those retractable things, but something that provides shade. It could even be a vine-wrapped pergola. Something that offers a little escape from the sun and has a wow factor.
For the really adventurous gourmet, a new outdoor kitchen is a great deck improvement feature. It doesn’t necessarily have to extravagant, just offer the basics of what you need — a grill, landing and work area, and, serving area. Before you start this improvement, it’s best to be in-the-know about prevailing wind conditions, have plenty of light for the evenings, and be situated where it’s convenient to get in and out of the house.
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Floating Deck and Fixed Deck Pros and Cons
You’ve been doing a bit of home improvement lately, turning your focus to your yard to create a more functional, aesthetic outdoor living space. Now, you’re thinking about building a patio or attached deck and have stumbled onto the concept of a floating deck. After mulling the options over a bit, you decide a deck is a better choice as it fits your design.
The question becomes whether to install an attached deck, one that’s connected directly to your home, or a floating deck. As with most landscaping and home improvement projects, the choice isn’t easy and you’re wondering which is right for you, your home, and your lifestyle.
The answer really lies in what you’re trying to accomplish. The purpose of the feature will be key to which one you ultimately choose. You’ll have to take many things into consideration, particularly things like how long you plan to be in your home and what you’ll need to actually build your deck.
The Difference between an Attached Deck and a Floating Deck
Let’s start with the most fundamental difference between the two structures. An attached or fixed deck is precisely what it sounds like, it is attached directly to your home. A floating deck, though, is not attached but it doesn’t really float. The name is a bit misleading; and, even though it evokes the notion it’s portable, it isn’t. A floating deck can be placed anywhere, even right outside your home, it just isn’t physically attached.
Comfort, elegance and living space make a deck one of the best home improvement investments you can make. According to the annual Remodeling magazine “Cost vs. Value Report,” you’ll get back nearly 75 percent of what you pay for a deck if you sell your home within the first year after the deck is built. That investment can vary widely, from around $15 per square foot installed for pressure-treated Southern yellow pine decks to more than $30 per square foot for cedar and redwood. —This Old House
One of the reasons people choose this kind of feature is because they can put it practically anywhere in their yard. Some opt to build theirs around one or more trees. Others build theirs as a base for a pergola. Some construct the feature to extend an existing attachment to their homes. Still other homeowners opt to build a floating deck partly or fully around a water feature. In other words, they use it as both a functional space and as an expanded focal point.
Pros and Cons of Floating and Fixed Decks
Of course, with each type there are pros and cons. Here’s what you need to know about each to help you decide between an attached structure and a floating feature:
Floating Decks
Pros:
- Ability to install where it’s most convenient. You’ll be able to choose the location and the height off the ground is a bit more flexible.
- You can build it out and expand on it more freely. With this kind of deck, shape is only limited to the imagination.
- It can’t damage your home if it’s damaged by weather. Because a floating deck isn’t attached directly to your home, it can’t pull away and damage the exterior of your house if it’s damaged by high winds or other forces of nature.
- Easier to build for the DIY types. Since the feature isn’t directly attached to your home, you won’t need as much skill to build one yourself.
Cons:
- Usually requires more maintenance. Because these kinds of decks are typically close to the ground, you’ll probably have to deal with weeds growing-up under and between the planks.
- May not bring a high return-on-investment. If you’re going to be selling your home in the future, this could be a selling feature or one that’s a turnoff because it isn’t extending from the exterior of the house.
- Susceptible to damage from surrounded natural features. Should it be built around one or more trees, it could become damaged if a tree is damaged by weather or dies. Roots are also a possible problem.
Attached Decks
Pros:
- Seamlessly continues the flow from the interior of your home to the exterior. This is a big plus, especially for the grill gourmet because the kitchen is always nearby.
- Usually further off the ground and away from trees. This means not having to battle weeds growing-up from the ground and less probability of being damaged by a falling tree.
- Ability to enclose in screen. Another advantage of a directly attached deck is being able to screen it in and make it pest proof.
Cons:
- Expense. An attached deck will probably cost more.
- Permitting. Because the structure is added to your home, you’ll need a building permit.
- Requires more skill to build. The average DIY homeowner won’t necessarily have the skill set to build it.
Regardless of type, both are great features. What’s more, you can opt for composite material to give it increased longevity.
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DIY Water Feature Freeze Protection Tips You Can Use
Depending on where you live in the country, be it in sunny Sarasota, Florida, or up north, you’ll experience freezing temperature during the winter months. In places like the Sunshine State, although infrequent, cold snaps cause temperatures to fall to at or below freezing, which typically happens in the months of January and February. What’s more, in places like Sarasota, said freezing temperatures generally last no more than a day or two and the mercury rises steeply in some instances with wild swings.
Of course, in the northeast and midwest, freezing temperatures are present during most of the winter, and, are not at all unusual. This means nearly regardless of your location, your landscape will have to survive through freezing temperatures.
During the winter, we often here about ways to keep plants, pets, and pools safe through freezes. However, not much attention is paid to water features. And, the absence of reminders can easily lead to an unpleasant and expensive reality of having to make repairs. These can range from quick fixes to all-out replacement, depending on the severity of the weather.
Types of Damage Water Features Experience During a Freeze
As the nearby quote states, damages sustained from freezing conditions to a water feature can range from minor to major. Depending on the severity of the temperatures, exposure level, and length of exposure, pumps can freeze, causing them to seize up, and, pools or ponds containing fish can freeze over, trapping noxious gases, causing fish to die.
Even in the warmest locales in the United States, nighttime temperatures may occasionally dip into the thirties. When they do, your outdoor water features are in danger of freezing over. A frozen feature may lead to broken seals and a faulty pump, so a little cold weather preparation will certainly pay off. Because each water feature is different, there is no standard set of rules for cold weather protection. However, arming yourself with a few nearly universal tips and tricks will help keep your water feature pumping for years to come. —San Francisco Chronicle
Other types of damages caused by freezing conditions can be a break in the integrity of a structural water feature, such as cement or ceramic wall. When this happens, it might lead to small leaks, which eventually grow larger and larger. The ensuing compromise can even lead to outright collapse or breaking apart, and can be a very costly situation to fix.
DIY Water Feature Freeze Protection Tips You can Use
With temperatures falling steadily, water features, such as fountains, pools, ponds, and waterfalls will be at-risk for damage from freezes. The best way to protect such hardscaping is to be proactive, not waiting until sustained cold grips. Here are some ways to protect water features from freezing conditions:
- Remove any plants. If there are any plants on or near your outdoor water feature, it’s best to move them to a warm place where you can water and feed them as needed. If possible, this makes for a better choice than trying to cover them before the real cold hits.
- Allow the water to run. If you’re in a location such as Sarasota or Manatee County, freezes will likely only occur for a few hours. Let the water continue to run and the motion will prevent hard freezing, which, in prolonged periods of freezing temperatures, could harm the pump.
- Install a de-icer. For water features with fish or ones that have running water, a de-icer will do the trick. Running water that’s warm enough will continue to swirl and that will provide shelter for fish. A de-icer will also keep the water from freezing over solid, which can cause a lot of damage. Choose a machine that fits your size water feature for the best results.
- Drain, flush, and cover. If a de-icer is not a viable option or you don’t want to exercise that alternative, then it’s best to drain the water completely. Flush out the system by pumping out any remaining water, disconnect the pump and water supply, and cover the entire feature. You can also stuff insulation over the pump before covering it with a tarp. Or, store the pump in a warm, slightly damp location to keep seals from drying out.
- Check the water feature periodically. On occasion, lift the cover to see if any snow or ice has melted and run back into the water feature. If it has, drain it out because if it fills and then freezes, it will probably expand enough to crack the feature.
While these steps will help to protect your water hardscape during the winter, other methods should be completely avoided, like adding chemicals to the water. This is not a good idea because you don’t know how the water or the feature itself will react. In addition, chemicals could wreak havoc with the filter and pump system.
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